By Melanie Young and David Ransom, The Insatiably Curious Culinary Couple
Photos: Courtesy of David Ransom
O’Donoghue’s Tavern in Nyack, a gathering place for over 55 years, has a fresh look and new focus on clean eating. Known as OD’s Tavern by regulars, the restaurant underwent restoration in 2015 and reopened under new stewards Dianne Walsh Fuhrmann and Geoff Torrens.
Clean eating is important to Dianne, who owned a natural-foods store and personally cooks gluten-free for a daughter with celiac disease. At OD’s Tavern, she oversees recipe development with Chef Ed Green, creating seasonal menus focused on organic, non-GMO ingredients with vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options. You are keenly aware of what goes into making your dish thanks to detailed menu descriptions. The website features an ingredients glossary listing purveyors, from local farmers to fisheries.
Many items are offered for both lunch and dinner. We began with the Crabless Cake, a spicy vegan fritter made from hearts of palm with a crispy gluten-free panko coating (two cakes per serving). On the lighter side, the Cauliflower Steak was a thick slab from the head of a cauliflower covered with slivered almonds and topped with a delicate lemon gremolata and not-too-garlicky aioli. The portion was generous.
From the taco selections, we chose chipotle Amish firebird grilled chicken served on a gluten-free soft corn tortilla, which was filling and not terribly spicy (your choice of two or three per serving). Next visit we’ll try either the grilled Wild Atlantic Cod taco or the Spiced Cauliflower taco.
OD’s Tavern serves five entrée salads. We split the Kale Tahini Salad, a large plate filled with dark blue-green Lacinato (Tuscan) kale, romaine lettuce, Brussels sprouts, cherry tomatoes, roasted chickpeas and sunflower seeds tossed in a light tahini garlic dressing. Salads can be topped with Amish firebird grilled chicken, organic salmon, grass-fed NY strip steak, crabless cake or avocado.
We’re always curious about vegetarian burgers, since many taste “freezer-fresh” or become mushy between the buns. The house-made Black Bean and Sweet Potato Burger, made with organic quinoa, walnuts and scallions, was lightly seasoned and held up nicely. It was topped with lettuce, tomato and red onion and served with herbed aioli on either a regular or gluten-free bun or on multigrain toast with a choice of hand-cut fries or salad.
Though veggie-centric, OD’s Tavern offers meat options, including grass-fed lamb and beef burgers and a nitrate-free bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwich.
The desserts focus on gluten-free. The dense, luscious Avocado Chocolate Pudding was swoon-worthy. It’s hard to believe it contained no chocolate, just avocado whipped with dark-cocoa powder, a little maple syrup, vanilla extract and almond milk. The moist, not-too-gooey gluten-free Carrot Cake was made with fresh carrots, apple sauce, flax seeds, walnuts, raisins and almond flour with buttercream frosting.
The beverage list focuses on biodynamic and organic wines around the world, craft beers and cocktails. For the undecided, ordering Mystery Red Wine and Mystery Beer lets the server pair a libation with your dish.
For more information, visit ods-nyack.com. █